6. Deck Railings

With the verandah platform at the rear of the tower, I had to fabricate new, curved deck railings around the sides of the verandah . I had already adapted side hull pieces to the sides of the upper hull in this area, to make the hull bulge outward slightly around the widest part of the verandah.

To make the rear deck railings, I decided to use 0.030" brass wire since it would be strong, keep its shape well, and could be soldered.

  1. Pre-drill 2 holes on either end of the hull bulge; this is where the ends of the wire railing will be inserted.
  2. Measure and mark 4 evenly-spaced holes along the top of the hull bulge; these is where the stanchions will be inserted.
  3. Hand-bend the brass wire into the complex perimeter 3D shape of the rear railing, and then temporarily insert both ends into the 2 pre-drilled holes in the top of the hull bulge.
  4. Using a long, slender drill bit in a pin vise, drill the remaining 4 holes in the top of the hull bulge, angling the drill bit so it goes the hole up to the installed railing.
  5. Push short piece (1") of brass wire into each hole, cut to size where it reaches the railing, and then solder it to the railing. Repeat for the remaining stanchions.
  6. With the upper railing and stanchions installed, form the middle rail from bendable 0.030" aluminum wire, and then CA it into place.
  7. Install small PE tabs to the front of the railing for attaching the side ropes.
  8. Repeat the whole process for the railing on the other side of the boat.

I painted the deck railings using the same primer and final colour as I used for painting the tower. After the paint dried, I used CA to attach the railings to the hull.

Side view of partially-constructed port railing, showing evenly-spaced stanchions. Made from 0.030 brass wire soldered together. Completed port railing, showing the complex curves. PE tabs in front for rope. Middle railing made from alu wire. Installed port railing